8:00am, arm out the window, music blasting, cliff hugging roads & ocean as far as the eye can see. I was feeling absolutely free as a bird while we drove towards Positano on the tight winding roads from Sorrento. Twas quite the peaceful drive until we reached the high road above Positano then the stress kicked in because wow…SO MANY VEHICLES!
Stop start stop start stop start, the drive into Positano was absolute chaos and I now understand why people don’t recommend driving. Before we could even see the beautiful cliffside town, the traffic was mental, parked cars overflowed onto the already tight roads, making it almost impossible for the traffic to move. Somehow it did though, inch by inch, so if you don’t have a rental car I totally join the bandwagon and recommend taking the ferry or the bus!
We spent 2 days in the beautiful Positano & similar to our stay in Sorrento, we spent our time swimming, eating and drinking so here’s what to expect:
9:00am – After an absolute nightmare driving in, we were relieved to have arrived at our bed & breakfast (yaaaaas). Florida Residence was perched high up on the hill with stunning views of the colourful Positano houses below. Definitely on the more budget scale when it comes to accomodation in Positano, but when you’re spending everyday out & about, who needs a 5 star?! Free breaky each morning, friendly staff, an outdoor terrace and one hell of a view, who could complain. Check out the pad HERE, booked through booking.com – this was perfect for Brynnie, mum and me.
10:00am – One thing on our minds and this was the beach. Positano is super famous for its picture perfect beach and after strolling down the cliff from our hotel, we wanted to get amongst. I was actually surprised to see the beach mostly empty, I had assumed it would be jam packed with tourists, insta-models & families by 10am. We walked down the far end of the beach to get that classic view of Positano I’ve seen so many times before. Rows of orange umbrellas, beautiful cliffside buildings & so much colour it almost looks surreal – this place is just like the postcards & is as dreamy as you’ve ever imagined.
12:00pm – Hot, sweaty and time for lunch. We gathered our belongings and wandered towards the restaurants to find something for lunch. La Pergola restaurant sits right along the beach and with a roof covered in pergola (hence the name yo), this was a beaut spot to eat. Looking out from this restaurant you see Italian men, paintbrushes in hand and a canvas covered in beautiful watercolour paintings. “Bella, Bella” they say as ladies stroll pass them, I definitely felt the Italian culture surrounding me.
1:00pm – Back to the beach for another hour of relaxation. We spent our time reading (we all freekin love our kindles) and running along the boiling hot pebbles to get in and out of the water. Man European beaches are hot!!! So many smart people walking in and out with their jandals but as Kiwis…there’s no way and hell we’d walk to the water in shoes! Bare feet for us, no matter how hot the pebbles!
2:00pm – Time to cruise back to our hotel and while you’re moving about Positano, do it in sloooooooooow mode. The inner streets are full of colour and in high season…full of people too but don’t let this annoy you. The town vibe is so relaxed and chill, no ones rushing and neither should you. What might annoy you though, just a little, are the steep bloody hills! Biggest workout my ass has had in a while, I’ll tell you that. Going back up to our hotel was a good 15/20min of uphill battles, but thankfully the gorgeous views along the way make it worth it. Relaxing on our terrace & having some drinks before dinner was the perfect way to end our relaxed day at the beach.
6:00pm – Dinner at Da Gabrisa. Holey heck…an absolute must if you’re staying in Positano! The location of this restaurant was luckily just up the road from our hotel so thank the lord, there was no more steep hill climbing for us. The view of Positano and the ocean below is absolutely insane (make sure you book to get yourself on the cliffside outdoor tables). Bryns risotto came in a gigantic lemon for christ sake?! UMMMMM YUM! We definitely felt the vibes at this restaurant, Brynnie, mum and I. It was a dinner to remember for sure.
7:00pm (ish) – With the sun almost setting, we cruised further up the hill to take in the views. A little tipsy and feeling good we found a nice spot (on the roof of someone’s house) and made ourselves comfortable. We looked out and over Positano and the beach down below and to be honest, it was quite the surreal experience. I’ve for SO LONG envisioned this town, the colour of these buildings, the steep hills and blue waters so it was pretty rad to be finally living it.
8pm – After an ice-cream and a small wander around, we were ready to hit the hay. Gotta love travel life with the parents, what a bloody incred day!
9:00am – What a day to be alive. Opening the shutters to a pretty beautiful view, I had absolutely no complaints…except I’m a little hungry. I love bed & breakfasts because of the free breaky in the morning. It always feels like a win (even though it was factored into the price) but you get the buzz. Anything “free” on a holiday tastes better, looks better, even feels better. Standard Italian breakfast of ham, cheese, pastries, cereal, yogurt and coffee (thank god for those steep hills) and we were ready for the day.
10:00am – The plan was just to follow the winding road down to the beach, checking out all the shops along the way. God I love being on island time. You’ll come across boutique clothing stores, jewellery market stalls, shoe shops, souvenir shops and beautiful ceramic tile factories, its getting lost in here that makes you feel the Italiano vibes. A new white shirt for Brynnie and a beach bag for mum, we were happy little travellers just absolutely cruising.
11:30am – Finding the nearest gelato store, we sat down, ordered and got stuck in because why not, we’re on holiday!
12:00pm – Da Adolfo private beach restaurant. This is MUST if you’ve got more than a day to spend in Positano. Escape the masses and head to a private beach. Even better…one with a private restaurant too! We managed to fluke this BIG TIME. Turns out reservations date back months so if you’re thinking about it, I suggest booking in advance. Anyway, we headed for the docks and looked out for a small boat with a red fish sign on it (like the picture below). These leave every hour from 10am–2pm and after that, the water taxi is your only option. The driver of the little boat (bless him) had the shits with Bryn, mum and I right from the start, who knows why but I can only assume its because we didn’t have a reservation like everyone else on board.
Upon arrival, only a short 10-15 minutes later, the driver tells Bryn, mum and I not to ask for a table before 2pm because the people with reservations have right of way. He told us to wait for the 2pm calling, not any sooner and even still…we may not get a table. So off mum goes, disregarding his advice (you gotta hustle in this world) and walks straight up to the counter.
“Hi what time can we get a table please?” – I can tell straight away that the Italian man takes a liking to her and I hear him whisper “Come back at 1:20pm, we’ll be able to slot you in on a table” BOOM! Yes mum, Tina for the win!
This then gave us a good hour to chill on the small private beach. Looking at the beach, it was small yes, full of people waiting to get into the restaurant yes, full of sun loungers yes, but still a nice change of scenery to the busy busy Positano + the smell of fresh seafood was a winner for us 3!
Walking into the restaurant and 20 past 1pm, we got a table straight away and we’re grinning ear to ear. The menu was on a small blackboard with the days freshly caught seafood. The restaurant was more of a beach shack, super casual in its vibe, no real order system just catch a waiters eye, order a bunch of seafood and relax. Mussels, tuna, lobster, smoked fish, octopus, calamari and salad, we shared the lot, sand between our toes, salty hair and in true island style.
2:30pm – So if you do head to the beautiful Da Adolfo restaurant, keep in mind that the first boat home is at 4pm. We couldn’t be assed hanging around until 4pm, so after lunch we called a water taxi and went back to Positano. The view coming back into Positano is absolutely insane, so make sure if you don’t go to the restaurant during your stay in Positano, definitely take a boat trip either along the coast to Amalfi, or just to see Positano from the water – beautiful!
5:00pm – After a few hours reading and chilling on the terrace of our hotel, it was time to get jazzed up and head out for drinks. Franco’s bar is every instagramers dream, showing off one of the best views in Positano with a killer cocktail menu to match. Upon our arrival the place was absolutely slammed so unfortunately Franco’s was a no go for us (I recommend getting there before 5pm if you want a spot). For those of you who don’t want to go to a fancy bar, this stretch of road (near Franco’s) shows the best view of Positano for sure! Head up this way anyway just to get an incredible pic.
Instead of Franco’s, we went to the next best thing, or in my option, something even more beautiful. This was the Champaigne & Oyster Bar located in the world renowned 5 star hotel, La Sirenuse (literally just 5 metres down the hill from Franco’s). Now let me just say this…Bryn and I would NEVER even enter a place like this if it were just us travelling, but with mum keen to spoil us rotten, we enjoyed a 20Euro cocktail each with 6 oysters to share. And yes I did just say 20Euro for one cocktail?! WOW though, you obviously pay for the view because god damn it’s ridiculous.
6:30pm – Feeling hungry, we headed towards Chez Black, a restaurant along the beach that we’d booked earlier in the day. Definitely a restaurant I’d recommend (though not for the budget backpackers) but the place was packed, the seafood was amazing and the vibes were perfect for our last night in Positano.
7:30pm – After dinner and just before the sun set behind the hills, we wandered along the beach to check out that classic Positano view by night. This was sooooooo different than seeing it during the day. The masses of people were no where to be seen, there was a calmness around us, the ocean was moving gently, the buildings upon the cliffs we’re shining brightly and everything felt chill and carefree.
8:00pm – Heading home up those steep ass cliffs is definitely better when you’re heading towards a bar, so on our way home we stopped at Ristorante IL Capitano and had a few drinks. This place deffs has potential with its gorgeous view but it was just deeeeeeaddd while we were there. Still the perfect nightcap before we headed home for bed. The restaurant section (seperate to the bar) was packed full of people so would be a good place to eat I’m sure!
So Positano…what an absolute treat. Feeling super grateful being able to spend 2 days in such a stunning town and although it was expensive (sorry mum), we we’re able to totally relax, appreciate each other and enjoy every experience.
Have you been to Positano? What are your fav things to do? Put them in the comments below!
Leah | FREE & ADDICTED
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